Xct Mu Bi Pc 126Jewellery

Explanation of the Itthālaṅkāra Discourse (Women’s Adornment)

Background

The Itthālaṅkāra discourse lies in the Bhikkhunī Vibhaṅga section of the Vinaya Piṭaka in the Theravāda tradition. It is a discourse within the Pātimokkha, the basic code that bhikkhunīs must observe. The context in which the discourse appears concerns the issue of personal adornment in the community of female monastics during the Buddha’s time.

In the Buddha’s time, some bhikkhunīs still retained worldly tendencies, desiring cosmetics and jewelry to enhance their appearance. This was contrary to the spirit of renunciation, abandoning worldly desires in order to focus on the practice leading to liberation. The Buddha saw that this conduct affected the concentration and the ability of bhikkhunīs to practice the precepts, and therefore he set forth specific rules.

Main Content

The Itthālaṅkāra discourse stipulates that bhikkhunīs are not permitted to wear jewelry such as gold, silver, diamonds, or other precious ornaments. They also may not apply makeup to the face, dye the hair, or use substances that beautify the skin to create an attractive appearance. This rule applies even at particular times or in special circumstances.

The rule is established on a clear principle: a renunciant monastic is one who has abandoned desires for sensuality and bodily beauty. Wearing jewelry or applying cosmetics is not only an act in accord with worldly customs, but also shows a mind not yet completely separated from these desires. By maintaining a simple and stable manner in clothing and appearance, a bhikkhunī creates the mental conditions to focus on the Dharma.

The rule also aims to protect the honor of the Sangha. A female monastic who wears much jewelry may easily cause the community to question the true purpose of her going forth, or to see her as not truly having abandoned worldly ambitions. Therefore, observing this rule is also a way to preserve the pure image of the Buddhist Sangha.